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Free Knitting Pattern: Do or Do Knot Baby Hat

Small projects and summery yarns are great choices for those of us who can't bear to pack the needles and yarn away til fall. This month, we share a fun-to-make baby hat pattern that is knit in the round with a cotton/bamboo yarn blend yarn and topped with an adorable knotted i-cord. Choose your favorite Knitter's Pride interchangeable, fixed circular or double pointed needles to whip up this sweet baby hat in your choice of two sizes!


Do or Do Knot Baby Hat
Designed for Knitter's Pride by Stefanie Goodwin-Ritter

Gauge
20 stitches and 30 rounds = 4 inches in stockinette stitch, washed

Sizes
0-6 (6-18) months

Finished head circumference
16.5 (18.5) inches / 42 (47) cm

Supplies

  • US 7 (4.5mm) circular needles - 16" circumference, or 40" circumference, if magic looping
  • US 7 (4.5mm) DPNs
  • 2 balls Vinnis Colours "Bambi" yarn, shown in #832 Duck Egg, or 192 yards (176m) DK/light worsted yarn
  • Knitter's Pride Blocking Mat
  • 1 Stitch Marker

Abbreviations 
k - knit 
kf&b knit into the front and back of 1 stitch 
k1tbl - knit one stitch through the back loop
k2tog - knit two stitches together
p - purl 

To Make Hat
Cast on 80 (88) stitches. Place marker and join to begin working in the round, being careful not to twist stitches.

Work *k2, p2 rib for 1 (1.5) inches / 2.5 (3.8) cm.

Begin Working in Stitch Pattern:
Round 1: *k1tbl, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 2: K all stitches.
Round 3: *k1tbl twice, p2, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 4: *k2, p2, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 5: *k1tbl, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 6: K all stitches.
Round 7: *p2, k1tbl twice, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 8: *p2, k2, repeat from * to end of round.

Work Rounds 1-8 a total of 3 (4) times.

For 6-18 month size only, work Rounds 1-4 one more time.


Both Sizes - Begin Crown Decreases:
Decrease Round 1: *k2, k2tog, repeat from * to end of round. 60 (66) stitches.
Knit 1 round even.
Decrease Round 2: *k1, k2tog, repeat from * to end of round. 40 (44) stitches.
Knit 1 round even.
Decrease Round 3: *k2tog, repeat from * to end of round. 20 (22) stitches.
Decrease Round 4: *k2tog, repeat from * to end of round. 10 (11) stitches.
Decrease Round 5: *k2tog, repeat from * to to last 0 (1) stitch of round, k 0 (1). 5 (6) stitches.
Decrease Round 6: *k2tog, repeat from * to last 1 (0) stitch of round, k 1 (0). 3 (3) stitches.

With remaining stitches, work 3.5 inches of i-cord. Break yarn and pull tail through stitches to secure. Weave in ends. Knot cord as shown in photo (or do not...it's up to you!). Machine wash in gentle detergent, lay flat to dry.


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How to Re-Use Yarn: A Guest Post with Knitted Bliss

We’ve teamed up with Julie Crawford of the Knitted Bliss blog to bring you a handy tutorial on repurposing yarn from project that either didn’t turn out the way you planned, or for some reason have gone unused since finishing them. Julie’s original post appears appears here, along with our own recommendations for reclaiming yarn so you can use it for a new project you’ll love!



I don’t often do tutorials, but I have recently learned SO MUCH about how to reuse yarn from a knit that I had to share it with you guys. In particular because I’ve finally decided to turn my Delineate Tank into a Manzanilla Sweater, using the Spirit Trail Fiberworks yarn that I loved so much the first time around. I had almost two full skeins leftover from the original project, so this sweater will be a mix of unused yarn AND recycled yarn, which will have its own considerations. First, let’s recycle the yarn.

Note: The ‘stickier’ a yarn is, the harder it is to rip back. if there is any mohair or angora in it, it will be cling to the stitches, and not want to be easily undone. It can still be done, but you’ll need to go more slowly.

You will need:

  • the project
  • wool wash (my favourite is Eucalan)
  • a crochet hook or blunt tapestry needle
  • some waste yarn
  • a sink
  • a towel


Knitter’s Pride Recommends: Our Wool Winder & Swift will make balling and reskeining yarn faster & easier!

A note about the wool wash, in case you are wondering why I’m declaring Eucalan as my fave: I’ve tried other kinds, but I always come back to Eucalan because I get a lot of product for the price, which means more washes. It’s totally biodegradable and made with natural ingredients, and I also really like that the cap and top of bottle seem to magically stay clean and never get gummed up or sticky. My favourite scents are Pink Grapefruit and Jasmine Wrapture, but I’m using classic Eucalyptus scent for this tutorial.

Step 1
If you look closely at your hems and where you bound off, and pull a bit at the fabric, you will be able to see the tiny tail of where the ends were woven in. You can use a crochet hook or a blunt tapestry needle to begin pulling it loose, until you can then undo the cast off. If at any point prior to this you can’t find the end or the knot you pulled when you cast off was so tight there’s no way you’ll undo it, then you can always get some scissors and snip out the cast on edge.


Step 2
Start pulling. You may need to pause now and then, especially with flat knitting, as the sides tend to be a bit stickier.

As the yarn comes away, you will need to wrap it into a ball. If you have a yarn winder you can attach the loose end and unwind the sweater that way.


But you can also just use your hand, like this:


Or, try one of our new nostepinnes!

You will need to make a new ball for each section of yarn that you have. So, as you are winding and come to the end of the skein in the knit, put that ball aside and start a new one with the new end that you find.


Step 3
Once you have unwound and have all the balls of crinkly, ramen-noodle style yarn, you will need to get it ready for a bath. You can use a swift if you have one (shown above is the Knitter’s Pride Signature Swift), but I used the backs of two chairs, one of which had the high chair on it. And it had so much crusted baby food and weird stains that I couldn’t bear to snap a photo. So, it should look like the photo in this link, where the chairs are clean. Then, using the waste yarn, loosely tie 2-3 sections of it to keep all the strand of yarn corralled together. This will be very important for keeping the yarn from becoming a snarled mess later on. It will look like this:



Step 4
Bath time! Pour a capful of Eucalan into a sink filled with warm (not hot) water. Immerse the yarn.


You want to ensure that the yarn is fully saturated, and not floating on the surface. Push it down until it’s absorbed a fair quantity of water, and let it sit for about half an hour to help the fibers get fully relaxed. After 20 minutes, take a look at the yarn – is it still a bit crinkly? Then it needs more time. Continue soaking. If it’s relaxed, then drain the water (no need to rinse), squeeze out the excess water gently, and roll in a towel to remove more of the water. Hang to dry away from heat or light, a shower is a good place for this.

Step 5
You can then wind your yarn into a ball, or into a hank, both are shown below. Here is a 1 min video showing how to wind your yarn into a hank (the long one that looks like a pastry), which is ideal if you aren’t going to be using it right away.


Hedgehog is just for visual interest. I was trying to get one of the cats to lay beside it, but when was the last time a cat did anything you wanted it to do?

Now, before you dive into your knit, if you have a mix of yarn you have recycled AND yarn that hasn’t been used (like me!), then you want to keep the following in mind. I would like to give a big shout out of thanks to Celeste, a previous commenter who emailed with me about this, and had wonderful tips to share:


  • Cotton and acrylic might not change a lot in the process above, but wool, wool blends (and alpaca) can stretch a little or a lot.
  • It could also have stretched a bit, if you hung your washed yarn up to dry, rather than laid it flat.
  • Once a yarn is washed, it plumps up, filling in the space between fibers. Unwashed yarn won’t have done this yet. So you know that this will affect your….
  • Gauge!! You will need to do a gauge swatch in both your washed yarn AND your unwashed yarn to compare, and see if there is any difference. There could be a very big difference, and you want to know before investing a sweater’s worth of time into a knit.

Then Celeste also suggested this brilliant step:

“Another way to do a quick check is to lay the two yarns parallel to each other. You likely won’t see a difference in thickness. If you do, then it’s a sure sign. What you’d want to look for is the twist of plies of the yarn. If you lay a ruler next to them count the times the plies curve over the yarn in 4″/10cm segment (like a swatch the larger the measurement the greater accuracy). Then do the same for the second yarn. If they match up perfectly you can choose where to go from there.”

Genius, right? So if your yarn is showing a difference, then simplest solution is to wash all of it, both the used and unused yarn. If it is treated the same way and more likely to behave the same from one skein to the next.

There you have it! How to reuse your wonderful, precious yarn. If you’ve invested all that time into creating a knitted piece, it should be something you love to wear. If it isn’t (once you have completed the 6 emotional stages of frogging a project) and you love the yarn, why not give it a new lease on life? You might knit something you can’t live without this time!

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