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Showing posts with label guest blog. Show all posts
Showing posts with label guest blog. Show all posts

How to Re-Use Yarn: A Guest Post with Knitted Bliss

We’ve teamed up with Julie Crawford of the Knitted Bliss blog to bring you a handy tutorial on repurposing yarn from project that either didn’t turn out the way you planned, or for some reason have gone unused since finishing them. Julie’s original post appears appears here, along with our own recommendations for reclaiming yarn so you can use it for a new project you’ll love!



I don’t often do tutorials, but I have recently learned SO MUCH about how to reuse yarn from a knit that I had to share it with you guys. In particular because I’ve finally decided to turn my Delineate Tank into a Manzanilla Sweater, using the Spirit Trail Fiberworks yarn that I loved so much the first time around. I had almost two full skeins leftover from the original project, so this sweater will be a mix of unused yarn AND recycled yarn, which will have its own considerations. First, let’s recycle the yarn.

Note: The ‘stickier’ a yarn is, the harder it is to rip back. if there is any mohair or angora in it, it will be cling to the stitches, and not want to be easily undone. It can still be done, but you’ll need to go more slowly.

You will need:

  • the project
  • wool wash (my favourite is Eucalan)
  • a crochet hook or blunt tapestry needle
  • some waste yarn
  • a sink
  • a towel


Knitter’s Pride Recommends: Our Wool Winder & Swift will make balling and reskeining yarn faster & easier!

A note about the wool wash, in case you are wondering why I’m declaring Eucalan as my fave: I’ve tried other kinds, but I always come back to Eucalan because I get a lot of product for the price, which means more washes. It’s totally biodegradable and made with natural ingredients, and I also really like that the cap and top of bottle seem to magically stay clean and never get gummed up or sticky. My favourite scents are Pink Grapefruit and Jasmine Wrapture, but I’m using classic Eucalyptus scent for this tutorial.

Step 1
If you look closely at your hems and where you bound off, and pull a bit at the fabric, you will be able to see the tiny tail of where the ends were woven in. You can use a crochet hook or a blunt tapestry needle to begin pulling it loose, until you can then undo the cast off. If at any point prior to this you can’t find the end or the knot you pulled when you cast off was so tight there’s no way you’ll undo it, then you can always get some scissors and snip out the cast on edge.


Step 2
Start pulling. You may need to pause now and then, especially with flat knitting, as the sides tend to be a bit stickier.

As the yarn comes away, you will need to wrap it into a ball. If you have a yarn winder you can attach the loose end and unwind the sweater that way.


But you can also just use your hand, like this:


Or, try one of our new nostepinnes!

You will need to make a new ball for each section of yarn that you have. So, as you are winding and come to the end of the skein in the knit, put that ball aside and start a new one with the new end that you find.


Step 3
Once you have unwound and have all the balls of crinkly, ramen-noodle style yarn, you will need to get it ready for a bath. You can use a swift if you have one (shown above is the Knitter’s Pride Signature Swift), but I used the backs of two chairs, one of which had the high chair on it. And it had so much crusted baby food and weird stains that I couldn’t bear to snap a photo. So, it should look like the photo in this link, where the chairs are clean. Then, using the waste yarn, loosely tie 2-3 sections of it to keep all the strand of yarn corralled together. This will be very important for keeping the yarn from becoming a snarled mess later on. It will look like this:



Step 4
Bath time! Pour a capful of Eucalan into a sink filled with warm (not hot) water. Immerse the yarn.


You want to ensure that the yarn is fully saturated, and not floating on the surface. Push it down until it’s absorbed a fair quantity of water, and let it sit for about half an hour to help the fibers get fully relaxed. After 20 minutes, take a look at the yarn – is it still a bit crinkly? Then it needs more time. Continue soaking. If it’s relaxed, then drain the water (no need to rinse), squeeze out the excess water gently, and roll in a towel to remove more of the water. Hang to dry away from heat or light, a shower is a good place for this.

Step 5
You can then wind your yarn into a ball, or into a hank, both are shown below. Here is a 1 min video showing how to wind your yarn into a hank (the long one that looks like a pastry), which is ideal if you aren’t going to be using it right away.


Hedgehog is just for visual interest. I was trying to get one of the cats to lay beside it, but when was the last time a cat did anything you wanted it to do?

Now, before you dive into your knit, if you have a mix of yarn you have recycled AND yarn that hasn’t been used (like me!), then you want to keep the following in mind. I would like to give a big shout out of thanks to Celeste, a previous commenter who emailed with me about this, and had wonderful tips to share:


  • Cotton and acrylic might not change a lot in the process above, but wool, wool blends (and alpaca) can stretch a little or a lot.
  • It could also have stretched a bit, if you hung your washed yarn up to dry, rather than laid it flat.
  • Once a yarn is washed, it plumps up, filling in the space between fibers. Unwashed yarn won’t have done this yet. So you know that this will affect your….
  • Gauge!! You will need to do a gauge swatch in both your washed yarn AND your unwashed yarn to compare, and see if there is any difference. There could be a very big difference, and you want to know before investing a sweater’s worth of time into a knit.

Then Celeste also suggested this brilliant step:

“Another way to do a quick check is to lay the two yarns parallel to each other. You likely won’t see a difference in thickness. If you do, then it’s a sure sign. What you’d want to look for is the twist of plies of the yarn. If you lay a ruler next to them count the times the plies curve over the yarn in 4″/10cm segment (like a swatch the larger the measurement the greater accuracy). Then do the same for the second yarn. If they match up perfectly you can choose where to go from there.”

Genius, right? So if your yarn is showing a difference, then simplest solution is to wash all of it, both the used and unused yarn. If it is treated the same way and more likely to behave the same from one skein to the next.

There you have it! How to reuse your wonderful, precious yarn. If you’ve invested all that time into creating a knitted piece, it should be something you love to wear. If it isn’t (once you have completed the 6 emotional stages of frogging a project) and you love the yarn, why not give it a new lease on life? You might knit something you can’t live without this time!

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How to Use Lifelines in Your Knitting

This guest post was written by Jody Richards, founder and editor of Knotions Magazine. She’s been a knitter and crocheter for over 30 years and is one of the original users of Ravelry. 

Jody shares even more great tutorials here on the Knotions site, and you might be interested in the latest eBook on shawls from Knotions – ShawlStar. 

All patterns are free on Knotions and it’s mobile-friendly for both tablets and smartphones. Don’t miss the PDFs of every pattern as well!


Not just for Lace Knitting

Lifelines aren’t just for lace knitting. Read on to learn how they’re helpful for all knitting!

Regardless of your experience level, lifelines can be a great time-saver and sanity-saver if anything ever goes wrong. 

And let’s be clear – something WILL go wrong. You might: 
  • mis-read a chart
  • start on the wrong row after putting your work down
  • just forget where you are in the sequence.
If any of those things happen and you realize it several rows later, a lifeline can be a real lifesaver.

Great for laundering, too

Another reason for a lifeline is so you can launder the work before you’re done. I’m actually a big fan of this with top-down designs because yarn has a tendency to bloom and who wants to knit more than is needed?

After an important section

I also use lifelines after I’m done knitting a section and it looks good. It’s a way to say “things are good through this point”. 

I personally HATE knitting ribbing, so I’ll often add a lifeline once I’m done with ribbing. This way, if I do have to rip, I won’t rip into the ribbing. Because seriously, I don’t need to knit that ribbing a second time.

Putting in a Lifeline

It’s actually a pretty easy thing to put a lifeline in.

Once you’re done with a row:

Thread a blunt needle with smooth yarn (I use a smooth cotton for this step). Make it easier on your eyes and use a contrasting color.


Weave the yarn in through the whole row SKIPPING ANY STITCH MARKERS. I use the knitting needle and cable to help guide me. The important thing is that you DON’T miss any stitches. It’s easy to miss a yarn over or do something wrong around increases, so if your pattern has rest rows, I recommend doing this on a rest row.


Now that your lifeline is in the entire row, make sure that the lifeline yarn doesn’t pull the work in and make it tighter. Then, cut the yarn to be a length of more than the width of the work so you can knot the ends together and, again, avoid it from pulling the work in at all.


Knot the ends together.


IMPORTANT: Once you’re done, make sure you remember what row it’s on. An easy way to remember this is if you do it after you’ve knitted the last row of a repeat. But that may not be convenient, and you might need to do it at another time. If so, just make sure you note the row number. A couple ways you can do this:
  • Indicate it on the printed chart.
  • Take note of it in your Ravelry project.
  • Keep track of it on your cell phone.
These are just ideas – the important thing is that you DO it.

If you need to use the Lifeline

If you find yourself in need of ripping down to deal with an error, have no fear because that’s why you put in the lineline!

Just take your needle out of your work and rip down. As long as you caught every stitch when you added the lifeline, the ripping won’t go beyond that row.


Now that you’ve ripped down, you need to put the work back on the needles. Just follow the opposite process this time. 


Once you’ve put the work back on the needles, you’re ready to start knitting again! Just make sure you start working on the appropriate row (you took note of that as I suggested above, right?) and that you don’t catch the lifeline while you’re knitting that first row.

An Alternate Way to Thread a Lifeline

Just like people prefer to knit in different ways, there are multiple ways to thread a lifeline.

If you have interchangeable needles with the little tightening holes, you might want to try this way instead.

In order to do this, you need to knit the work using a pair of interchangeable needles.

Step 1: Scoot all the work onto the metal part of the needle


Step 2: Fish the lifeline yarn through the tightening hole. Knot it loosely (I say loosely because you’ll need to undo it in Step 4 below.


Step 3: Scoot the work down the needle and onto the cable to it’s all on the lifeline yarn.


Step 4: Untie the knot at the tightening hole. Knot the lifeline yarn together.


Step 5: Continue knitting regularly, being careful not to catch the lifeline yarn when knitting.


Give a Lifeline a Try

I gave you two ways to add a lifeline to your work and steps on how to remove it.

I also gave you a variety of ideas on ways to use a lifeline in your work because it’s more than just for lace.

Make sure you give them a try! They’ll likely save you time and make your work nicer!


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Tutorial: How to Knit Brioche Into The Row Below

Today we have a special bonus blog post from Woolly Wormhead, who shares a tutorial for knitting brioche into the row below. It's great for those of you participating in the Muratura KAL, which we are sponsoring. Be sure to check out the Woolly Wormhead blog for details on the KAL (plus a coupon code for your pattern purchase!), and also don't forget to enter our blog giveaway for December, found here.

Knitting into the row below is a variation of Brioche knitting, and creates a wonderfully textured
stitch pattern on what is a garter stitch ground. It is used in my Muratura and Rainbow Warrior
patterns, and it isn't as yarn thirsty as other brioche stitches (knitting into the row below doesn't use as much yarn as creating a yarnover).

The usual abbreviation for knitting into the row below is 'K1b'. This stitch is usually worked on
alternate stitches, and is offset on RS rows to create the pattern.

1. Knit up to the stitch that has the K1b instruction. On a piece of knitting worked flat, the 1st row is usually *K1, K1b; rpt; the 2nd & 4th rows are knit across. The 3rd row would then be *K1b, K1; rpt. When working in the round, the 2nd & 4th rounds would be purl across.
2. Insert your needle into the stitch below the one on the left hand needle, as shown.


3. Bring your yarn around and perform a knit stitch.


4. This is the completed knit stitch, with the worked stitch still on the left hand needle – here you can see clearly how you have knit through both loops together.


5. Then slip the worked stitch off the needle, and done! It's much simpler than it first seems.


Copyright Woolly Wormhead © 2016. Used With Permission; All rights reserved.

Website: http://woollywormhead.com
Ravelry: http://www.ravelry.com/groups/woolly-wormheads-hats

Getting Over Your Fear Of Knitting Sweaters

This guest post is by Johnny Vasquez, co-creator of The 30 Day Sweater as part of the promotional tour for The 30 Day Sweater Challenge. To learn more about the challenge or to sign up, visit http://30daysweater.com/knitterspride.

My friend Sue has been knitting for more than 50 years. She’s made all kinds of things; hats, scarves, socks, mittens, blankets. But until recently she was always too scared to try knitting a sweater. Like many knitters, even though she had all the skills she needed, there was something keeping her from tackling her first sweater: Fear.

This may not be the kind of crippling fear I have when I see a snake or a tarantula (seriously, don’t ever put me near a tarantula. I’ll scream like a little girl and be halfway down the street in seconds), but there is definitely a mental block for some when it comes to knitting sweaters. They’re time-consuming, expensive, require lots of finishing, and have a lot of opportunity for error. Every knitter’s worst nightmare is to knit for days on end, only to find you’ve made an irreparable mistake and have to start over. But fear not! There is hope. Knitting a sweater does not have to be as hard as you think. Here are a few tips to help you get over your fear of knitting sweaters.

Guess What? You Probably Already Know Everything You Need To Knit A Sweater!
While knitting a sweater isn’t necessarily simple, there are only a few things you need to know:

1. How to cast on.
2. How to knit the knit stitch.
3. How to knit the purl stitch.
4. How to do a basic increase.
5. How to do a basic decrease.
6. How to bind off.

Now, you may be shaking your head, wondering why I didn’t include finishing, seaming, button bands and picking up stitches, etc.The answer is this: for a simple sweater, it’s possible to make one with only the 6 techniques listed above!

Many traditional-style sweaters require you to knit in pieces and sew them together - for many, this is terrifying or unappealing. There are lots of knitters who do not enjoy seaming for one reason or another! Luckily, not all sweaters have seams: my favorite way to knit a sweater is top-down, which has the advantage of being knit in the round, can be tried on as you go, and in most cases, is entirely seamless. There are a few methods for knitting sweater from the top down, but my favorite is the raglan.

Elephant pattern by Sandy Myerson
Eat The Elephant.
There’s a famous saying: “How do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time.” Take a look at your sweater pattern and break it down into smaller chunks. Map these little bites onto a calendar and plan out a schedule for knitting your sweater. Even if you don’t stay entirely on schedule, you can rest your mind by knowing you only need to finish a small part each day. These small sections will eventually lead you to a completed sweater and make it easier for you to finish.

Pushing Beyond Your Comfort Zone Helps You Become A Better Knitter.
All of us want to be better at our craft. But you’re only as good as the hardest thing you try. If you want be improve your knitting, you’ll need to make projects that are more advanced than you think you’re capable of. Remember, no matter how complicated a pattern may be, at the end of the day, it’s all knits and purls.

It's Only Knitting!
We’re not solving world hunger or curing cancer. We’re knitting sweaters. The pressure is off. So what if you have to rip out a sleeve? That’s ok! It’s not a race. There is no secret knitting society tracking your project, making sure that you’re worthy of joining their ranks . . . that we know of. Part of the fun of knitting is the journey. Those struggles are memories you’re creating that make that sweater even more meaningful. Every time you wear it, you’ll be reminded of the hard work you put in to create this work of art.


Conclusion:
There are a lot of things that are legitimately scary. Being dragged to the bottom of the ocean by a giant squid is scary. Raising kids is scary. Tarantulas are scary. Knitting? Not scary! Face your fears. Knit a sweater. If you’d like a little bit of help planning your next (or first) sweater project, check out our free sweater planning guide. It walks you through all the questions you’ll need to consider before making a sweater.

Click Here to Download

If you need a little bit of motivation to finish your sweater, take the 30 Day Sweater Challenge! Join thousands of knitters around the world as we knit a whole sweater during the month of October. We’ll have lots tips and tricks, interviews with industry experts, and special giveaways along the way. To learn more and sign up, visit http://30daysweater.com/knitterspride.